Choosing the right size is the difference between a garment you love and one that stays in the drawer. Pattern sizes don’t match shop sizes, so always choose with your measurements, not the size you usually buy. This guide works for women’s, men’s and kids’ patterns.
Time 10 min
Level Beginner
For Women, men & kids
You need Your measurements
1. Take your measurements
You need your bust or chest, waist, hips and height. If you haven’t measured yet, follow our guide: how to take your body measurements.
2. Forget your shop size
A size 10 in a shop and a size 10 in a sewing pattern are rarely the same. Every brand and every pattern company uses its own chart. That’s why the only reliable way is to compare your own measurements with the chart of the pattern you’re making.
3. Find the key measurement for your garment
Your measurements will often fall into different sizes. That’s normal. Choose the size by the measurement that matters most for the garment, because it’s the hardest part to alter:
| Garment | Choose by | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Tops, dresses, jackets (women) | Bust | The shoulders and armholes are drafted around the bust |
| Shirts, tops, jackets (men) | Chest | Shoulders and chest are the hardest to alter |
| Pants, shorts, skirts | Hips | Hips are usually the widest part; the waist is easier to adjust |
| Kids’ garments | Height, then chest | Kids’ sizes follow growth; check chest or hips for width |
| Pattern with its own advice | What the pattern says | Some designs need a specific measurement, always follow it |
4. Read the body measurements chart
Every pattern has a body measurements chart. It lists the body each size is drafted for. Find your key measurement and pick the size where it fits.
Example with a women’s pattern
Anna is making a pair of pants. Her measurements are bust 94 cm, waist 78 cm and hips 104 cm. In the chart, her hips fall between size 10 (102.75 cm) and size 12 (106.5 cm).
- For pants, the key measurement is hips.
- In a woven fabric, she chooses size 12, the next size up, so the pants aren’t tight.
- In a stretch knit designed with negative ease, size 10 can work too, because the fabric stretches.
- Her waist (78 cm) is closer to size 10: she can take in the waist a little when she sews.
Our women’s patterns usually run from size 00 to 22, but size ranges change from one pattern to another. Men’s and kids’ patterns have their own sizes, so always read the chart of the pattern you’re making.
5. Check the finished measurements
Most patterns also list finished garment measurements: the size of the garment itself. The difference between the garment and your body is called ease, and it tells you how the garment will fit.
| Type of ease | What it means | Typical garments |
|---|---|---|
| Negative ease | The garment is smaller than the body and stretches to fit | Leggings, biker shorts, swimwear |
| Close fit | Just a little bigger than the body | Fitted tops, jeans, pencil skirts |
| Relaxed fit | Clearly bigger than the body | Loose shirts, oversized tops, wide-leg pants |
Tip: measure a garment you love that fits well, and compare it with the finished measurements. It’s the easiest way to know how a new pattern will fit you.
6. Check the length
Patterns are drafted for a standard height. For example, our women’s patterns are drafted for 1.68 m (5′6″). If you are much taller or shorter, compare the finished lengths in the chart with a garment you own, and lengthen or shorten the pattern before you cut. For kids, check the length every time: they grow fast.
7. Between two sizes?
- Follow the key measurement for the garment (bust or chest for tops, hips for bottoms).
- Check the fabric: in woven fabrics, choose the larger size. In stretch knits with negative ease, the smaller size can fit.
- Check the ease: a relaxed design has room to spare, so the smaller size is often fine.
- Blend between sizes: if you’re one size at the bust and another at the hips, print both sizes and draw a smooth line from one to the other at the waist.
Make a test first
For a fitted garment or a new pattern, sew a quick test version (a “toile” or “muslin”) in cheap fabric. It takes a little time, but it saves your good fabric and shows you exactly what to adjust.
Questions
Why is my pattern size bigger than my shop size?
Sewing patterns use their own measurement charts, which are often different from shop sizes. Always choose with your measurements, not the number.
Should I choose by bust or by hips for a dress?
For most dresses, choose by the bust, because the top is harder to alter. If the skirt is fitted at the hips, check the hips too and blend between sizes if needed.
How do I choose a size for a child?
Start with the child’s height, then check the chest and waist so the garment isn’t too tight or too loose. If the child is between sizes, choose the bigger size so it lasts longer.
Found your size? Now learn how to print and assemble your PDF pattern.